Cosmética a la carta


La customización es algo bastante usado en la industria textil y en general en el sector de moda. Se pueden personalizar desde deportivas, camisetas o zapatos con tus propios colores, tacón o modelo, que permite que nuestros objetos sean «únicos» y exclusivos.

Es cierto que cada día el consumidor se preocupa más de los ingredientes que contienen sus cosméticos y de qué principios activos deben usar para alcanzar un objetivo determinado: luminosidad, hidratación, disminuir la hiperpigmentación o alargar la aparición de los signos de la sabiduría.

La industria cosmética se adapta con bastante celeridad a los requisitos del consumidor, creando productos más personales. En Alemania salió al mercado la creación de un gel de ducha o crema corporal de The Cosmetic Kitchen y hace tan solo unos meses Kiehl’s avanzaba la incorporación para este otoño de fórmulas cosméticas personalizadas. Sin duda, una nueva manera de  adaptar la función del antiguo boticario.

¿Crees que será la nueva tendencia en cosmética?

Si bien las fórmulas magistrales de farmacias son bastante recurrentes cuando queremos tratar afecciones específicas como son la dermatitis, o simplemente enfermedades que no rentan a la industria farmacéutica para lanzar al mercado un tratamiento, no son tan demandadas cuando se trata de cosméticos para el cuidado personal.

Las oportunidades que ofrecen este tipo de fórmulas es sin duda la atención, diagnóstico y personalización individual ayudando a que sean únicos, y con probabilidad baja de fracaso.

Algunas farmacias tienen su pequeño laboratorio cosmético y ofrecen a sus clientes fórmulas 100% personalizadas. En España son conocidas farmacias como la de Cosmética a Medida o Cocoloon .

En Estados Unidos, se pueden encontrar pequeños negocios destinados a este fin, conocidas como the modern apothecaries. Alguna de las más conocidas es  Between You & the Moon  en Brooklyn, Nueva York.

«Estos negocios no solo ofrecen fórmulas únicas, si no autenticidad»

Sin embargo, extrapolar la personalización 100% a las grandes firmas es bastante complicado. Requiere de muchos profesionales y tiempo en formación, lo que se traduce en costes. Las fórmulas cosméticas no se obtienen con un simple mezclando con la batidora, requieren de procesos de frío o condiciones determinadas para evitar la higroscopicidad (absorción de agua debido a la humedad del ambiente) y asegurar la homogeneidad de las emulsiones.

Si bien firmas como Kiehl’s suelen ofrecer una atención bastante interesante a los clientes y tienen una línea bastante amplia de productos para recomendar, ha decidido este otoño lanzar en españa lo que yo creo que será algo bastante novedoso y con éxito asegurado para la firma.


Permite customizar tu serum según tus necesidades: arrugas, mejorar la textura de la piel, unificar el tono y darle luminosidad, disminuir las rojeces o los poros. Realmente, no es más que un serum base, de la propia marca, al que le añades tu en casa, los principios activos que te hayan recomendado. Haciendo que el consumidor se involucre más en la preparación de sus cosméticos.

Esto ofrece una ventaja frente a los productos de lineal fijo, ya que cada uno decide qué quiere obtener y que quiere adicionarle. Evidentemente, nunca serán reemplazables a las fórmulas magistrales que nos pueden ofrecer en las farmacias, dónde realmente, adaptan la fórmula «base» a tus necesidades siendo bastante individual.

Pero abren la puerta a un nuevo tipo de cosmética que hasta ahora no había alcanzado las grandes firmas.

¿Conocías este tipo de servicios y nuevas tendencias en cosmética?  



Imagen principal  por Daria Nepriakhina (via Unsplash).

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