SLS vs. SLES | Sulfatos

¿Son los sulfatos tóxicos? ¿Irritan la piel? ¿Producen cáncer?

La moda de los productos sin sulfatos no es nada nuevo, y desde hace tiempo venimos leyendo en las etiquetas de nuestros champús el termino «sin sulfato» como gancho (teóricamente) hacia una cosmética más… ¿saludable?

De los sulfatos se dice que son agentes cancerígenos, que irritan la piel y son tóxicos. Como siempre, muchas de estas afirmaciones son verdades a medias, o simplemente otra mentira más que acechan alrededor del mundo de los compuestos químicos. Hoy vamos a intentar explicar un poco para que sirven los temidos sulfatos y si son o no tan perjudiciales.

Es cierto que en ocasiones el uso de los sulfatos en ciertas fórmulas no es la más acertada, como podría ser en un limpiador facial para pieles acnéicas, sin embargo, incluso estos no son ni tan malos, ya que a no ser que dejemos el jabón actuar durante toda la noche, el tiempo de aplicación es demasiado corto como para que tenga algún efecto tan negativo.

Cuando en cosmética hablamos de sulfatos, y sobre todo, aquellos escondidos en la etiqueta «SIN SULFATOS» nos referimos a los más conocidos: el  SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) y SLES (sodium laureth sulfate).

¿Qué son los sulfatos y para qué se emplean?

No son más que sustancias «atrapa grasa», conocidos como tensioactivos (o surfactantes), cuya función principal es limpiar un superficie (pelo o piel, en el caso de la cosmética).

SLS -SLES-estructura-quimica

De forma simple, los tensioactivos tienen dos partes, una afín a compuestos acuosos (parte hidrófila) y otra que repele los compuestos acuosos (parte hidrófoba). En este caso, el sulfato sería la soluble en agua, y lo que aparece delante del nombre (Laureth o lauryl) sería afín a la grasa, o mejor dicho, la parte liposoluble del tensioactivo.

La manera de limpiar os recordará un poco a como funciona el carbón activo . La parte correspondiente del tensioactivo se “pegará” a la mancha (aceite o agua), y permitirá eliminarla. De ahí que sean tan usados en productos de limpieza, permiten eliminar la grasa de las superficies usando disoluciones acuosas.como-funciona-tensioactivo

En cosmética tienen tres funciones principalmente: como limpiadores (poder detergente), humectantes y emulsionantes. Por lo que podemos encontrarlos en limpiadores faciales, aguas micelares o champús, pero hay veces que los encontramos hasta en la pasta de dientes o en la industria alimentaria ¿sorprendidos?.

Diferencia entre SLS y SLES

La diferencia entre ambos está en su estructura química, mientras que el sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) tiene una cadena alquílica, el sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES= sodium laureth sulfate) tiene una cadena de tipo éster (sulfato etoxilado).

A simple vista puede parecer que la diferencia es pequeña, sin embargo, es bastante diferente usar uno u otro cuando buscamos un tensioactivo (limpiador) poco irritante y agresivo.

SLS-SLES-propiedades

El SLS es más irritante y es mejor evitarlo (fuente) según el tipo de fórmula y producto cosmético mientras el SLES es más suave,  pero ¿son cancerígenos?

No.

Lo primero que tenemos que evaluar es la concentración usada en nuestros champús y el tiempo de vida sobre nuestra piel.  Ya sea un champú o un gel limpiador los sulfatos se usan en productos conocidos como rinse off, es decir, de aclarado, siendo su tiempo de vida en la piel/pelo bastante corto.

La asociación del cáncer Americano, la FDA y la comisión europea permiten tanto el uso de SLS como SLES en nuestros productos, y no hay estudios que vinculen el cáncer con su uso.

Sin embargo, sus productos secundarios en la síntesis sí. Hablamos del 1,4-dioxane que se forma en la síntesis del SLES. Aunque cada día se diseñan reacciones con una visión menos contaminante (green chemistry) que trata de reducir al máximo la formación de productos secundarios o usar disolventes que se puedan reciclar, bien es cierto, que hay veces que no se puede evitar.

Pero que se forme un producto secundario no significa que no se pueda aislar del producto final. Es cierto que puede tener un ínfimo contenido en 1,4- dioxane el SLES, pero para nada resulta peligroso para la salud del consumidor (como vimos aquí). Recuerda que las fórmulas no están hechas al 100% solo por 2 ingredientes, si no por bastante más, lo que reduce bastante la concentración final.

Lo que si que está demostrado es el alto poder irritante del SLS, por lo que estos mejor evitar cuando las fórmulas solo tienen SLS como sistema de tensioactivos (fórmulas normalmente baratas y malas).

En cuanto al SLES no es perjudicial  si sabemos usarlo de manera correcta e identificar para que tipo de usos está indicado.

Si te fijas, muchos champús que no pensabas, llevan SLES. Su uso, desde mi punto de vista, no es necesario como champú de uso diario, ya que nuestro cuero cabelludo no genera tanto residuo como para tener que usarlos. Sin embargo, si has usado laca, champú en seco, geles o productos con siliconas, que sí dejan residuos, es una buena opción usarlo un par de veces al mes.

En cuanto a su uso como limpiador facial.. no me suele gustar. Además, debes tener en cuenta que si tienes la piel seca eliminará la poca grasa que tienes.

¿Algunos champús con SLES que merecen la pena?

Sin dudarlo, los archiconocidos de LUSH en formato sólido, o simplemente muchos de los que puedes encontrar en cualquier droguería.

Como siempre, espero que haya resuelto alguna duda que tengas en el tintero y que no le tengas tannnta tirria a los sulfatos ¡no son tan malos, hombre!

4.004 pensamientos en “SLS vs. SLES | Sulfatos

  1. Me ha perecido super interesante! Supongo que había escuchado mucho a las típicas bloggers hablar de «uso champús» sin sulfatos. Y por eso pensaba que lo mejor es usar champús sin sulfatos.

    Ahora mi duda es, bueno, dos preguntas más bien:

    1. ¿Hay champús sin sulfatos?
    2. Estos champús sin sulfatos, ¿son igual de efectivos? ¿Necesitamos realmente utilizar champús con sulfatos, como tú has indicado, un par de veces al mes, para quitar bien todos los restos que tengamos en el pelo?

    Qué bien que estés de vuelta!!! Se echaba de menos este tipo de posts!!!!

  2. ¡Hola Patri! Gracias por leerme! Siempre de las primeras 🙂

    En cuanto a tus dudas, sí, existen champús sin sulfatos y mucho más suaves, suelen ser los que contienen betainas, glutamatos, glucósidos, lauratos o tauratos.

    Sin embargo, también podemos encontrar fórmulas con sulfatos (hay mundo más allá del SLS o SLES) que pueden resultar bastante suaves y respetuosos con nuestro pelo y cuero cabelludo, todo depende de los otros ingredientes de la fórmula.

    Normalmente, aquellos que solo contienen SLES + otros sulfatos y que no se consideran champús de uso diario, suelen ser más agresivos, por lo que su uso no estaría recomendado para todos los días (sería el caso de I love juicy de Lush o cualquiera de sus champús sólidos, desde mi punto de vista tiene una fórmula bastante agresiva para todos los días).

    A tu pregunta de si realmente necesitamos champú con sulfato en nuestra rutina diaria, te diría que no, pero dependerá de la frecuencia con la que te laves el pelo y el por qué. No es lo mismo limpiar el pelo que tiene residuos de laca, a aquel que solo tiene sudor tras el ejercicio físico. Para esto último, sin duda, un champú suave como sería el de Weleda, a base de glutamatos, sería suficiente.

    Como todo, dependerá de tu pelo y de tus condiciones. Puede que un champú formulado a base de sulfatos te vaya bien, o que por el contrario sensibilice tu cuero cabelludo.

    Pero de lo que no hay duda, es que no son tóxicos ni cancerígenos y se pueden usar sin miedo alguno.

    ¡Espero que haya resuelto tus dudas!

    ¡Muchas gracias por leerme!

    ¡Un abrazo!

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