Formaldehído| ¿Qué llevan nuestros pintauñas?

Hace un tiempo comenzamos a hablar de los ingredientes que tenían nuestros pintauñas. En aquel post hablamos de la presencia (o no) de tolueno o ftalatos en los esmaltes de uñas y para qué servían cada uno (te dejo aquí el link).

Uno de los miedos infundados que podemos encontrar en la red acerca de este producto es la presencia de formaldehído en su fórmula. Sin embargo, su uso es prácticamente cosa del pasado y hoy te explico por qué.

Te prometo ser breve, así que no dudes en quedarte y seguir leyendo.

¿Para qué se usa(ba) el formaldehído en los pintauñas?

Su función no es otra que reforzar el brillo y la larga duración a los esmaltes. Elevadas concentraciones de nitrocelulosa producen películas más mates y opacas, como hablamos en el post anterior, y por tanto, necesitamos otro ingrediente formador de película que sea compatible con la nitrocelulosa, los disolventes y los plastificantes que tenemos incorporados en la fórmula.

Dentro de las sutancias más usadas se encuentran las resinas con base de formaldehído como la toluenesulfonamide/ formaldehide resin (TSFR). 

¿Cuál es el problema con estas resinas?

Si bien no son tóxicas per se, sí que producían ciertas alergias en algunas personas más sensibles. Por eso, actualmente se usan las resinas de poliéster, acrilatos o epoxi, para sustituir a estas, obteniendo unos pintauñas menos problemáticos. Siendo resinas como la toluenesulfonamida/epoxy resin (TSER) las más comunes en los esmaltes y presentes en los tan conocidos esmaltes de Essie.

Otro problema con las resinas con base de formaldehído es su capacidad para generar formaldehído, lo que se conoce como FRPs, formaldehyde realising preservatives. Sustancias que se usan como conservantes de productos cosméticos frente a posibles microbios.

Entre las sustancias más conocidas, a parte de la resina de formaldehído, nos encontramos el methylene glycol (MG), que es tóxico, y además se usa para fórmulas destinadas a los tratamientos del alisado del pelo.

Por ley, en la EU todos aquellos productos que contengan  FRPs, deberán indicarlo en la etiqueta cuando su concentración supere el 0.05%

Sin embargo, y aunque su concentración esté regulada y no se use formaldehído en los esmaltes, muchos laboratorios cosméticos ya no usan este tipo de resinas, ya sea para hacer más seguros sus cosméticos, o para evitar el rechazo hacia su producto por parte de los consumidores.

Desde luego, dejar de usar estos productos que son donadores de formaldehído es un acierto si estas expuestos a ellos diariamente, como ocurre en los salones de belleza.

A nivel de usuario, los podrías usar sin miedo alguno, al igual que se usa lejía o amoniaco en casa, es decir, con espacios ventilados.

formaldehido-ftalatos-tolueno-esmalte-unas

¿Entonces por qué nos venden productos con el claim 3-free, cuando muchos de estos ingredientes ya no se usan o están prohibidos?

Sencillo, nosotros como consumidores demandamos estas etiquetas y somos el gancho perfeto. Y por tanto, la industria cosmética debe adaptarse a nosotros, los clientes.

Muchas veces pensamos que nos engañan, cuando somos nosotros los que hemos hecho con nuestros reclamos esto aparezca. De ahí que aparezcan cada vez más claims como son los esmaltes 5- Free, 7- Free o 9- Free, que excluyen entre otros ingredientes el camphor o parabenos.

Asi que te lanzo una pequeña reflexión:

¿Son tóxicos los ingredientes que se excluyen en estos productos? o ¿nos fiamos más cuando leemos en las etiquetas- delanteras- la palabra free,  “libre de” o “natural”?

¡Espero que te haya gustado el post y nos vemos pronto con más!

 

 


Bibliografía

[1] http://personalcaretruth.com/2010/08/exposing-the-formaldehyde-myth/

[2]https://www.americanchemistry.com/ProductsTechnology/Formaldehyde/EU-Committee-Confirms-Safety-of-Formaldehyde-Nail-Hardeners.pdf

[3] Cosmetic and Toiletries Magazine, Vol. 126, N. 5/ May 2011, 372-380.

[4]Reglamento (CE) No 1223/2009 (BOE, castellano), https://www.boe.es/doue/2009/342/L00059-00209.pdf

[5]Ficha técnica de DBP, CosIng. http://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=29071

[6] Guidance for Industry: Limiting the Use of Certain Phthalates as Excipients in CDER-Regulated Products (FDA), http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/Guidances/ucm330792.htm

[7]http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/color/Three-free-New-Generation-Nail-Polish-202309561.html

[8]https://www.nicnas.gov.au/communications/publications/information-sheets/existing-chemical-info-sheets/formaldehyde-factsheet

 

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