Cosmética con ciencia: por qué no deberías añadir acetona a tu esmalte de uñas #cosciencia

Si hay un remedio popular para devolver la vida a ese esmalte de uñas seco de la temporada pasada es añadir un par de gotas de acetona. Sin embargo, tras varios usos veras que es un circulo vicioso. Cada vez que lo usas parece más pastoso y además ha perdido todo su brillo.

¿Por qué? Por que no estamos usando el disolvente adecuado.

¿Cuál es la composición básica de un esmalte de uñas?

Aunque hablamos de manera más extensa aquí y aquí, los componentes de un esmalte de uñas son:

– Disolventes/diluyente: determinan el tiempo de secado, disuelven las resinas.
– Formadores de película
– Plastificantes: dan flexibilidad
– Agentes espesantes: evitan la separación de pigmentos
– Pigmentos: dan color
– Resinas: aportan propiedades al esmalte como el brillo o la duración

Cabe destacar que un disolvente ayuda a obtener una fórmula más homogénea y sirve para que el resto de ingredientes puedan disolverse sin problema. Mientras que el diluyente se añade como extra para ayudar a un secado más rápido y además abaratan los costes de la fórmula.

Y no, ni el tolueno ni el benceno se usan a día de hoy como disolventes en los esmaltes de uñas. 

Post recomendado: Tolueno y ftalatos en nuestros esmaltes de uñas

Qué pasa cuando añadimos acetona..

Si miramos el INCI de cualquier marca comercial encontraremos una lista de ingredientes de este tipo:

inci essie pintauñasComo ves los disolventes/diluyentes son: acetato de etilo, acetato de butilo, acetato de propilo y alcohol de isopropílico y en ningún sitio aparece acetona, es decir, los formuladores no la incluyen en la fórmula.  

disolventes esmaltes uñas

¿Qué ocurre si añadimos acetona a la fórmula? Que estamos modificando la composición del esmalte, ya que sustituimos los disolventes (en este caso acetato de etilo y butilo) que hacen que esa fórmula brille, dure más o en la que los pigmentos se “disuelven” de la manera más homogénea posible, a tener una fórmula completamente diferente con un disolvente nuevo y con sus propias características (como es la presión de vapor).

Sería como hacer unas tortitas con agua en vez de con leche.. tenemos tortitas ¡pero no son iguales!

Cómo revivir tu esmalte de uñas…

Blanco y en botella. Añadiendo quitaesmaltes SIN acetona, ya contiene mayor cantidad acetato de etilo, el mismo ingrediente que aparece en el INCI de los esmaltes de uñas. Lo malo del quitaesmaltes es su contenido en alcohol que puede interferir en recuperar tu esmalte al 100%.

La mejor opción es optar por usar diluyentes para esmaltes secos (thinner). Aquí en Alemania venden este por menos de dos euros, pero marcas como MAVALA también tienen el suyo. Su composición es algo más completa, ya que no solo llevan acetato de etilo sino también acetato de butilo, lo que hará que dure más tiempo en buen estado al no cambiar la fórmula del esmalte, simplemente estamos añadiendo los disolventes que se han ido evaporando poco a poco…

¿Y por qué se evaporan?..¡Eso lo dejamos para dentro de unas semanas!

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