¿Puedo usar ácido glicólico, retinoides y niacinamida con VITAMINA C?

Ácido glicólico, niacinamida, retinoides, vitamina C, ácido salicílico ¿los puedo mezclar todos? aunque más bien sería…¿puedo usar todos los productos de The Ordinary a la vez? Yo soy de usar lo menos posible y que funcione. Desde mi punto de vista rutinas que superan los 5 productos (limpiador, contorno de ojos, serum, crema-opcional, y protector solar) es demasiado, rutinas que si además le añades base de maquillaje, productos en crema, en polvo, etc.. ¡se vuelve en una auténtica locura!

El tratamiento más recomendado por dermatólogos y que a mi más me gusta es antioxidantes como tratamiento diurno y alfa-hidroxiácidos/ retinoides como tratamiento nocturno. En verano muchos dermatólogos aconsejan usar los antioxidantes también de noche, para acentuar esa protección frente a los radicales libres y su acción despigmentante.

Sin embargo, siempre queda la duda.. ¿puedo mezclar la vitamina C con ácido glicólico, retinol o.. niacinamida? Todo dependerá del pH de cada producto.

pH, piel y efectividad

Es casi de cultural general saber que el pH de la piel (más bien del estrato córneo) ronda un pH= 4- 6 (según el tipo de piel) y que se deben evitar productos con  un pH alcalino (pH> 7) o demasiado ácido (pH<3). Algo que olvidamos a la hora de usar tratamientos como los alfa-hidroxiácidos, vitamina C, retinol o niacinamida es que el pH es fundamental para que los activos funcionen correctamente.

Artículo recomendado ¿Por qué el ácido glicólico necesita un pH bajo?

En el caso de la vitamina C además es un poco más complejo, ya que en función del derivado que usemos, necesitaremos un pH u otro.

DEPENDIENTES DEL pH

  • Vitamina C pura: ácido L-ascórbico, necesitamos un pH bastante ácido para que no se oxide (pH 3.5). En ocasiones se acompaña de ácido ferúlico para ayudar a conseguir un pH aún menor ( casi de 3) y aumentar su efectividad.
  • Vitamina C estabilizada: ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phospate (MAP) suelen ser estable a pH neutros (pH= 6-7),  ó ascorbyl 6-palmitate requieren un pH más bajo y formulas alejadas del agua.

NO DEPENDIENTES DEL pH

  • Vitamina C encapsulada. Permite que el tratamiento de la vitamina C sea de manera gradual, es menos efectivo a corto plazo pero muy práctico a la hora de formular. La encontramos en cremas con base siliconada o con liposomas, de estos últimos su penetración en la piel aún está en entredicho, y los últimos estudios indican que solo actúan como vehículo de activos (Link aquí). El pH de estas fórmulas no suele ser un factor clave para que funcionen y debido a su encapsulación no son susceptibles de oxidarse, por lo que no dependen del pH. Eso sí, la visión de resultado será mucho más lenta que cuando usamos ácido L-ascórbico.

Un dato a tener en cuenta es la presencia de agua en las fórmulas con vitamina C, que hará que la oxidación del ácido ascórbico sea mucho más rápida. De ahí que fórmulas siliconadas no dependan del pH al no existir agua en su fórmula.

Alfa-hidroxiácidos + Vitamina C

Un pH ácido no solo hará que un alfa-hidroxiácido sea más eficaz, sino también la vitamina C en cualquiera de sus derivados, es decir, si usamos ascorbyl glucoside como derivado de la vitamina C y tenemos un pH de base más ácido potenciaremos la liberación de ácido L-ascórbico y por tanto, su eficacia (químicamente hablando, diríamos que desplazamos el equilibrio hacía la formación del ácido L-ascórbico).

La mayoría de las veces los alfa-hidroxiácidos están formulados a pH ácidos, sobre todo cuando son en formato tónico o serum ligeros, por lo que en este caso no sería demasiado problemático aplicar después un serum o crema con vitamina C.

En cambio, muchas veces encontramos cremas/hidratantes con AHA. Suelen ser texturas mucho más densas con un pH más cercano a nuestra piel cuya acción no solo es  tan exfoliante sino más bien hidratante. En estos casos, es muy importante saber el pH de nuestro producto con vitamina C.

Si nuestro producto con AHA/BHA tiene un pH menor que el de la vitamina C, primero aplicar los alfa/beta-hidroxiácidos y después la vitamina C.

Si el pH de la vitamina C es menor que el del alfa-hidroxiácido, deberemos aplicar primero la vitamina C y luego el AHA.

¡No para todas las pieles! Si tienes la piel sensible puede ser que combinar AHA con vitamina C (sobre todo a elevadas concentraciones) sea demasiado, sobre todo a concentraciones elevadas. Por lo que sería mejor separar su aplicación (día/noche, días alternos, etc).

Vitamina C + Retinoides (vitamina A)

retinol-strivectin.jpgSi existe un activo potente en el mundo de la cosmética son los derivados de la vitamina A, los retinoides. Es cierto, que a concentraciones bajas existen formulaciones que pueden no ser tan irritantes, sin embargo, se debe usar siempre con precaución. Sin entrar en profundidad sobre los retinoides, podemos encontrarlos en el INCI como ácido retinoico, retynil palmitate, retinol u otros derivados como el retynilaldehyde o tretinoina. Aunque hablaremos en otro post sobre ellos, no todos son iguales ni tienen el mismo efecto en la piel, un retynil palmitate se puede usar de día pero la tretinoina por ejemplo no.

Tanto la vitamina C como la A son antioxidantes, y no deberían usarse en conjunto. Cualquier derivado de la vitamina A se termina transformando en el ácido all-trans-retinoico al que le gusta el pH más bien neutro, o no tan ácido como al ácido ascórbico.

Si decides usar ambos recuerda que la vitamina C prefiere pH bajos sobre todo cuando está formulado en formulas muy ligeras y acuosas, deberás esperar al menos una media hora entre ambos para evitar la desactivación de ambos activos. Aunque lo mejor es sin duda usarlos de manera separada.

Es decir, retinoides de noche y vitamina C de día. Recuerda que algunos retinoides son fotosensibles (se inactivan cuando les da la luz solar) y bastante fotosensibilizantes (sensibilizan la piel).

Que algo se pueda mezclar químicamente no significa que sea bueno para la piel

Vitamina C + Niacinamida

Y por último, la mezcla más conocida y sonada. Vitamina C y Niacinamida (derivado de la Vitamina B3, Niacina). Ambos activos son muy buenos como antioxidantes y  tratamientos antiedad, sobre todo la niacinamida. Esta última, hace menos visibles los poros y beneficia a  pieles con tendencia al enrojecimiento.

Sin embargo, se supone que su mezcla está desancosejada.

La realidad es que usar ambas en conjunto no causa daño en la piel como podríamos pensar, si no que debido a la combinación del ácido ascórbico y la niacinamida se forma un complejo que desactiva en parte ambos activos y por tanto, pierden eficacia. Digo en parte, por que como en (casi) todo existe siempre un equilibrio.

niacinamida-acido-ascorbico-niacinamide-ascorbate

¿Podríamos usar entonces ambas a la vez? Sí, la manera más efectiva es dejando un tiempo de espera de alrededor media hora antes de poner algo encima de la vitamina C, aunque eso no te libra de posibles irritaciones en la piel debido a pH demasiado ácidos de algunas de las fórmulas.

De hecho, el ascorbato de nicotamida (niacinamida) se usa como suplemento nutricional.

La otra posibilidad es que la niacinamida se convierta en niacina y que pueda causar enrojecimiento en la piel, aunque como bien indica Kind of Stephen, las posibilidades de que esto ocurra es muy complicado, ya que la niacinamida es bastante estable a los cambios de temperatura.

Mi opinión sobre las mezclas

En realidad, lo mejor y más efectivo sería usar un activo en cada rutina (diurna y nocturna). Menos es más. No hace falta integrar todos y cada uno de los productos de la línea de The Ordinary a nuestra rutina diaria, ni usarlos todos de golpe.

Al fin y al cabo, estamos mezclando diferentes compuestos químicos que en su gran mayoría son dependientes del pH, por lo que la mezcla de más de un producto no es aconsejada:

1) podemos desactivar el ingrediente principal, como ocurre con la vitamina C
2) juntar dos productos demasiado ácidos pueden producir una irritación severa en la piel

 


Bibliografía

[1] Dreier J, Sørensen JA, Brewer JR (2016) Superresolution and Fluorescence Dynamics Evidence Reveal That Intact Liposomes Do Not Cross the Human Skin Barrier. PLoS ONE 11(1): e0146514.

[2] Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593.

[3] Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2017;10(7):14-17.

[4] Which kind of vitamin C is best for skin? The beauty Brains

[5]Can you use Niacinamide and Ascorbic acid together?, Kind of Stephen.

[6] Food Chemical Codex

198 pensamientos en “¿Puedo usar ácido glicólico, retinoides y niacinamida con VITAMINA C?

  1. Ole! Me ha quedado claro algunas dudas que tenía, así que, ya puedo completar mi pedido en The Ordinary ;D
    Muchas gracias por la explicación tan clara!!

  2. Me ha encantado el artículo. Siempre menos es más.
    Pero, ¿cómo podemos averiguar el ph de la fórmula? Yo suelo usar los antixidantes por la mañana, como vit C+ac ferulico (el nuevo serum Edafence de Cantabria Labs) y por la noche los aha y/ o bha (Neostrata) , pero alguna vez he usado la vitC en ampollas por la maña y como se tienen q usar pronto porque se oxidan también las he usado por la noche y luego los aha, ¿cómo sé cuál tiene ph más acido para usarlo primero? ¿ se debe esperar un tiempo entre la la limpieza y uso del aha, y entre vitc y aha?

    Gracias.

  3. Pues la única forma exacta es mirando en el envase o midiendo el pH. En el caso de las ampollas apostaría por que son con un pH bastante ácido para que se mantenga estable la vitamina C. Pero para no meter la pata, si no conoces el pH de ninguno, yo esperaria entre ambas aplicaciones y usaría el AHA (si tienen una fórmula bastante líquida) antes de la vitamina C.

    ¡Un abrazo!

  4. Hola de nuevo! La verdad es que, como bien dices, tengo bastantes productos de The Ordinary, y me queda la duda de cuáles puedo utilizar y cuándo:

    – ¿Puedo utilizar glicólico y láctico por la noche, en el mismo día? ¿Debería utilizar uno ccada noche en noches alternas?
    – Y si uso, a modo de tónico, bien glicólico, o bien ácido láctico, podría ponerme a continuación una crema con retinoides?

    Con tanto producto que me gusta probar a veces no sé ni cómo ni cuándo ponermelos! Ah, y también he incorporado Ácido Hialurónico con B5, ese le puedo aplicar bien por la noche después del tónico y también por la mañana, con mi crema hidratante, verdad?

    Mil gracias por las respuestas!!!!

  5. Madre mía… y no has pensado en simplificar un poco? 🙂

    En cuanto al glicólico y el láctico de TO los puedes usar de manera conjunta, aunque no le veo ninguna necesidad. La diferencia de ambos es que el ácido glicólico es más pequeño y por tanto, tiene un poder exfoliante mucho mayor (y con ello su poder irritante). El láctico en cambio, actúa de manera más superficial y puede resultar incluso hidratante, ya que lo tenemos de forma natural en la piel. Va genial si no queremos realizar una exfoliación tan agresiva como la que nos da el glicólico y suele ser bastante más tolerable por pieles sensibles/reactivas.

    Mezclar el glicólico y retinoides solo puede dar lugar a una irritación. Mejor separar siempre alfa-hidroxiácidos y retinoides, a no ser, que vengan formulados de manera conjunta (como creo que es el Retincare). Si no, yo no me arriesgo a usar dos productos por separado. Tienen pH distintos y fórmulas diferentes. Que pueden desactivar ambos activos o que pueden llegar a irritar la piel. Así que mejor, cada uno por separado.

    Claro, que luego todo depende del tipo de retinoide que estemos hablando, ya que no es lo mismo un retynil palmitate que la isotretinoina 🙂 Aunque eso es aún más complicado de contar!

    Con el hialurónico ¡no hay ningún problema!

    ¡Un abrazo!

  6. Mil gracias!!! Me ha quedado claro entonces! Voy a por los retinoides que se empiezan a marcar arruguitas en la frente!!! 😛

  7. Mil gracias por la explicación! Me ha quedado entonces claro que voy a atacar al retinoide y con ello a mis arrugas de la frente!

  8. Hola Raquel! Si uso tonico con glicolico al 5% y serum de Vitamina C al 12% por la noche en la misma rutina, anularia el efecto en la vitamina C? No lo acabo de tener claro… gracias por tu tiempo!! Un saludo

  9. Mil gracias por compartir ciencia !!! Mi pregunta es hacia el dicho dichoso contorno de ojos, ya que el retinoico en esta zona no se aconseja aplicar, qué tipo de fórmula aconsejas para solo contorno. Por lo que he curioseado the ordinary de momento solo ha comercializado la caffeína. Mil gracias por toda una clase de cosmetología !

  10. ¡Hola Gemma! Todo depende de la prisa que te des. Si lo haces con calma y dejas que todo se absorba no hay problema. El problem viene en rutinas cuando vemos rutinas infinitas, pero sin dejar que los productos se «asienten».
    ¡Un abrazo! Raquel

  11. ¡Hola Carolina!

    Pues para el contorno recomiendo cualquiera que sea apta para la zona, sobre todo en piel sensible. Normalmente se formulan a un pH un poco más elevado por eso. Si buscas contorno de ojos para eliminar ojeras, hay uno específico con retinol de la Roche Posay, pero seguro que también en marcas de dermofarmacia como Lierac, Neostrata, etc.

    Una económica que aún nadie le da el bombo que merece el la de CeraVe, un precio adecuado (ronda los 15€) y contiene niacinamida. Que además ayuda a largo plazo a eliminar manchas.

    ¡Un abrazo!
    Raquel

  12. Mil gracias por tu ayuda !! Una última preguntiya de todos estos compuestos cúales pueden producir brillos en la cara, no sé que estoy haciendo mal pero últimamente tras aplicarme el maquillaje tengo unos brillos horribles… =(

  13. Realmente, ninguno produce brillos. Si no que lo harán otros ingredientes que lleve la fórmula. Un error muy común es aplicar demasiada cantidad (algo habitual en fórmulas con vitamina C o retinoides).
    Revisa realmente qué has introducido en la rutina que antes no estaba o si estás aplicando de más.
    Eso, y el cambio de estación, que aunque no lo parezca, puede producir cambios en la piel.

    ¡Un abrazo! Raquel

  14. Yo tengo una duda… ¿El aceite de rosa mosqueta se puede mezclar con los AHA’s? Lo pregunto porque es un aceite que entre otras cosas contiene vitamina C. Ojalá me respondas la duda. Un saludo.

  15. Hola. Tengo la piel mixta con tendencia azneica y manchitas que me deja los granos. Mi rutina de noche es limpieza acido salicilico y niacinamida y después crema hidratante. Otros dias lo alternó con acido lactico y vitamina C . Lo estoy haciendo bien???? Gracias

  16. ¡Hola Manoli!
    Muchas gracias por visitar el Blog 🙂

    En base a los principios activos que nombras, creo que son perfectos para tratar justo lo que tu quieres: acné e hiperpigmentación post-inflamatoria. Ten en cuenta que los resultados son a largo plazo, y que mejor concentraciones no muy elevadas y mucha constancia.

    ¡Un abrazo! Raquel

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