¿Puedo usar vitamina C en verano? ¿Mancha? | Fotoestable y fotosensibilidad

Cada verano nos hacemos la misma pregunta ¿debo interrumpir mi tratamiento con alfahidroxiácidos? ¿y los retinoides? ¿vitamina C de noche o de día?

Respuesta relacionada con su estabilidad y mecanismo de acción en la piel: la fotosensibilidad.

Activo fotoestable, pero fotosensibilizante

El concepto de fotosensibilidad es algo bastante sencillo de entender. Pero el mal uso del término ha dado lugar a mucha confusión.

Se dice que algo es fotosensible cuando es sensible a la luz. Por el contrario, diremos que es fotoestable cuando no le ocurre ningún cambio tras su exposición a la luz solar o artificial.

Que un compuesto químico sea fotosensible significa que reacciona con la luz solar, produciendo como resultado otro compuesto totalmente diferente.

El ejemplo más sencillo es el de la vitamina C, que al reaccionar con la luz se oxida y por tanto es fotosensible. En cambio el ácido glicólico o el mismo agua, son fotoestables, no reaccionan con la luz y se quedan tal y como están.

Por qué la piel se vuelve fotosensible

Pieles con rosácea, dermatitis atópica, psoriasis o personas con enfermedades como la sensibilidad química múltiple o alergia al sol (erupción polimorfa lumínica) son pieles fotosensibles. Muy reactivas y sensibles cuanto se exponen a una radiación solar, incluso con fotoprotector solar.

En el caso de una piel sana diríamos que no es fotosensible, es decir, que si usamos crema solar de manera correcta, no presentaremos eritemas en la piel. En cambio el uso de ciertos activos pueden volver la piel sensible y por tanto, hablamos de activos que son fotosensibilizantes.

Los más conocidos y comunes:

  • Alfa-hidroxiácidos: los AHA son fotoestables al sol, es decir, no se degradan con la luz solar. Sin embargo, debido a su acción exfoliante en la piel, pueden fotosensibilizar la piel. Sobre todo cuando usamos peelings químicos de cabina o concentraciones demasiado elevadas (10-20%).
  • Retinoides: la familia de los retinoides es bastante extensa y la gran mayoría son fotoestables frente a la luz solar, excepto algunos como la isotretinoína o el ácido retinoico. Aunque su mecanismo en la piel no es igual que la de los AHA sí pueden fotosensibilizar la piel.
  • Aceites esenciales: muchos de ellos los encontramos como perfumes, pero también es muy habitual encontrar su recomendación en la cosmética casera o en redes. El árbol de té contiene linalool y limonene, entre otros, altamente fotosensibilizantes en la piel. Si alguien recomienda su mezcla con champú o el famoso desodorante casero, cerrad pantalla. Seguramente se trate de un remedio natural que pueda hacer más mal que bien.
  • Fármacos por vía oral/tópica: antiinflamatorios, anticonceptivos o psicofármacos son los más habituales. Aquí podéis encontrar una infografía de Boticaria Garcia.
  • Tratamientos quimioterapia o radioterapia, fotodepilación.

Antioxidantes: vitamina C

La vitamina C pura es fotosensible al sol, pero no fotosensibiliza la piel.

La función principal de la vitamina C o de cualquier antioxidante es la neutralización de radicales libres. Radicales que se empiezan a formar tras los 15 minutos de exposición solar.

Cuando se forman, existen dos maneras de neutralizarlos: reaccionando con antioxidantes (enzimáticos o no) o con otras moléculas que encuentren en su camino (lípidos, proteínas, nucleótidos). Esto último, es lo que genera una reacción radicalaria en cadena que finalmente causa el fotoenvejecimiento prematuro o en el peor de los casos, la aparición de melanomas.

La fuente principal de síntesis de radicales libres en la piel no es otra que la luz solar, en concreto, la ultravioleta y aunque los filtros físicos y químicos hacen parte del trabajo no son capaces de frenar su formación. Por eso, muchos laboratorios incluyen antioxidantes (filtros biológicos) en sus formulaciones.

Si en verano se aumenta la exposición solar y con ello la formación de radicales libres ¿tiene sentido suspender los tratamientos con antioxidantes? No. Al revés, se debería priorizar su aplicación.

¿Qué concentración de vitamina C necesito?

Hasta el momento el ácido L-ascórbico es el activo más efectivo frente a la neutralización de radicales libres y como  despigmentante. Pero presenta dos problemas:

  • Es fotosensible y se oxida rápidamente
  • Es inestable en disolución acuosa, a no ser que se ajuste el pH y se estabilice a través de otros ingredientes

Al igual que ocurría con el ácido glicólico, necesitamos un pH en torno al 3.5 para que pueda ser mucho más permeable en la piel y efectivo. El ácido ascórbico es hidrosoluble a un pH elevado, lo que dificulta su permeabilidad cutánea, que se consigue disminuyendo el pH. A un pH bajo es más liposoluble y por tanto, más afín a la piel.

¿Qué ocurre con un pH bajo? Que puede irritar la piel, sobre todo si la concentración es elevada.

Concentraciones entre el 5-10% suelen ser bien toleradas, mientras que fórmulas entre el 10-20% pueden resultar muy ácidas o agresivas cuando la vitamina C se encuentra en su forma pura.

Para evitar que esto ocurra el ácido L-ascórbico se estabiliza con vitamina E y ácido ferúlico o se usan otros derivados de la vitamina C. Menos efectivos en cuanto su acción despigmentante, pero aptos para la neutralización de radicales libres.

Alternativas: magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol (vitamina E) o ácido ferúlico.

¿Mancha la piel?

No. A no ser que el producto esté mal formulado (vitamina mal estabilizada) o se oxide debido a una mala conservación del producto (zonas de mucha humedad y calor, o envase transparente). En estos casos, lo que ocurre es que la vitamina C se oxida y se degrada.

Aunque hasta ahora se pensaba que su oxidación se paraba en el ácido dehidroascórbico, lo cierto es que sigue oxidándose hasta obtener eritrulosa. La eritrulosa, junto con la dihidroxiacetona (DHA), es uno de los ingredientes que se usa en los productos de bronceado que funcionan tiñendo la melanina. Y por eso, pueden manchar o más bien, teñir la piel.

Conclusión

El verano es el peor momento para eliminar las manchas solares, o al menos, para usar tratamientos que las atenúan. Concentraciones elevadas de vitamina C (alrededor del 15-20%) son las que mejor resultado dan, pero pueden irritar la piel y volverla sensible al sol.

Lo mejor sería centrar la rutina no en despigmentar, sino en prevenir la aparición de nuevas manchas. Concentraciones bajas (inferiores a 10%) en pieles que toleran el ácido L-ascórbico son perfectas y aportan una despigmentación gradual. En cambio, si tu piel no tolera esta forma de la vitamina C podemos optar por otros derivados que también ayudan a neutralizar radicales libres.

Si vas a la playa o vas a tener una exposición solar prolongada, lo mejor es dejar tratamientos con concentraciones superiores al 10% para la rutina de noche. A no ser que el laboratorio cosmético/farmacéutico asegure la estabilidad de la fórmula durante tantas horas de exposición solar, es posible que termine oxidándose y perdiendo su efectividad.

En estos casos, la mejor opción es buscar un fotoprotector solar que incluya antioxidantes.

Algunas recomendaciones

Protección solar + antioxidantes
Vitamina C y derivados

Bibliografía

[1] The science of fake tan, The Daily Mail UK.

[2] Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,2012 ,11, 310 – 317.

[3] Free radicals, natural antioxidants, and their reaction mechanisms, RSC Adv., 2015, 5, 27986.

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