3 Ingredientes ideales para tu crema hidratante: pantenol, niacinamida y manteca de Karité | Parte I

¿Qué crema me recomiendas? ¿esta crema es buena? ¿es mala? 

La verdad sobre las cremas hidratantes es que depende mucho de tus gustos personales (textura) y tipo de piel.

Por eso, describir la fórmula perfecta para una buena crema hidratante es casi imposible. Lo que si podemos, es conocer algunos ingredientes que según la evidencia actual y uso, indican que tenemos una crema que se adapta a lo que buscamos.

Aunque este artículo se podría dividir de mil maneras, he decidido optar por contaros cuales son los ingredientes que más me gustan, que evidencia existe, por qué y cuando los uso.

Debes tener en cuenta, que al final todo es sinergia, y aunque un ingrediente demuestre buenos resultados, no implica que su presencia en determinadas formulaciones sea la adecuada para tu piel. Podemos tener una fórmula con una base oleosa mucho más densa con un ingrediente estrella que se adapte a una piel seca, pero no en pieles más grasas.

Si desglosamos los ingredientes que se usan en cremas hidratantes tenemos tres tipos:

  • humectantes: captan agua y mantienen la piel hidratada
  • emolientes: acondicionan la piel
  • oclusivos: evitan la pérdida de agua transepidérmica y potencian la permeabilidad de activos

Lo habitual es que tengamos los tres grupos en la fórmula cosmética final. La relación entre ellos hará que tengamos una textura más grasa/oleosa si hay más concentración de oclusivos que humectantes, o mucho más ligera si la fórmula contiene más humectantes que oclusivos.

En el post de hoy hablamos de tres ingredientes que yo busco en mis cremas, ya sea como activo principal o dentro de una fórmula final: el pantenol, la niacinamida y la manteca de Karité.

 

Pantenol (humectante/activo)

Pertenece a una de las vitaminas estrellas dentro del cuidado personal cuyo uso tópico cumplió hace dos años 70 años: la vitamina B5 o el ácido pantoténico.

El pantenol que aparece en las cremas es en el realidad pro-vitamina B5 (dexpanthenol), ya que la vitamina B5, es poco permeable a través del manto hidrolipídico. Una vez que se absorbe, el pantenol se transforma en vitamina B5, aunque su mecanismo no está del todo claro.

¿Qué hace? Mejora la hidratación cutánea y restaura la barrera hidrolipídica.

Es uno de esos ingredientes que tiene muchos años de ciencia detrás. Ensayos aleatorios para el pos-tratamiento de dermatitis atópica demostraron que en concentraciones entre el 2.5-5.0% pueden mejorar la perdida de agua transepidérmica y con ello una mejora en el estado de la piel: picor/prurito y escozor.

No solo es bueno en el caso de tener una piel con dermatitis, sino en pieles secas o zonas que se irritan con más facilidad (zona del pañal en bebes). Ayuda a tener una piel más hidratada y re-epitelización (regeneración de las células epiteliales). Podríamos decir que tiene propiedades cicatrizantes (cremas cicatrizantes), pero no usarlo como reclamo.

Para mi es un clásico que siempre funciona, sobre todo en invierno o como tratamiento después de un peeling químico con alfa-hidroxiácidos.

Algunas de mis favoritos:

Niacinamida (activo)

Niacinamida, uno de esos ingredientes que ha salido del armario gracias a The Ordinary.

La niacinamida (o nicotamida) es la forma soluble en agua de la vitamina B3 (ácido nicotínico), es un ingrediente todoterreno e ingrediente estrella en cosmética coreana como despigmentante.

¿Para qué sirve? En resumen:

  • Regula la producción de sebo (concentraciones alrededor de un 4%) y se usa en tratamientos de acné
  • Ayuda como tratamiento frente al melasma e hiperpigmentación: disminuye la transferencia de los melanosomas (de los melanocitos) a los queratinocitos, y evita la hiperpigmentación
    Sin embargo, se ha visto que este efecto está bastante ligado a la concentración final de la niacinamida y que puede revertirse. La mayoría de estudios evalúan este efecto despigmentante en fórmulas que contienen niacinamida (concentración al 4%), pero también hay otros estudios que combinan la niacinamida con otros activos despigmentantes como son el ácido kojico, ácido tranexámico y retinoides
  • Reduce hiperpigmentación en la zona axilar en concentraciones al 4%
  • Estimula la síntesis de lípidos (ceramidas) y proteínas (queratina y filagrina), lo que hará que se reduzcan rojeces, potencie la hidratación de la piel y con ello se reduzca la perdida de agua transepidérmica. Esto no solo es interesante en pieles secas, sino en pieles con dermatitis atópica y en tratamientos de rosácea (concentraciones entre 2-4%)
  • Iguala el tono de la piel. Este efecto es muy interesante, ya que se debe a que inhibe la glicación de proteínas (cuya oxidación amarillea la piel) debido a su efecto antioxidante.

Aunque dependerá mucho de la concentración y fórmula final. Es un ingrediente que no tiene efectos secundarios, aunque en ocasiones leemos reseñas donde aseguran que después de su uso se enrojece la piel. Esto no se debe a la niacinamida, sino a la niacina, que es vasodilatador. Su presencia puede ser en forma de trazas o por que se produzca la hidrólisis de la amida con el tiempo. 

Algunas de mis favoritas:

Manteca de karité (emoliente y oclusivo)

La manteca de Karité no es más que una mezcla de :

  • fracción saponificable:  aproximadamente un 90% de triglicéridos y ácidos grasos como oleico, esteárico, linoleico y palmitico 
  • fracción insaponificables: 2-5% dependiendo del fabricante de terpenos (ácido cinámico), hidrocarburos, esteroles y algo de vitamina E en forma de tocoferol. A esta fracción es a la que se asocian propiedades anti-inflamatorias y antioxidantes. Pero mirando estos reclamos con lupa si fuese 100% real, en vez de un producto cosmético tendríamos un fármaco/producto sanitario. Sí, cuando escuches a alguien decir que su producto es anti-inflamatorio esta haciendo un reclamo que no corresponde con los permitidos en los productos cosméticos. Por lo que dejaremos el reclamo es sus propiedades antioxidantes, o más auto-antioxidantes para evitar que los propios ácidos grasos de la manteca se oxiden.

Artículos de interés: ¿Son todos los aceites iguales? y ¿Aceite de coco como protector solar? Fracción saponificable e insaponificable de los aceites vegetales.

Es un ingrediente muy oclusivo dentro de los ingredientes de origen natural, o más bien, vegetal y además no es comedogénico. Sería como el petrolatum, pero de origen vegetal.

Seguro que te lo preguntas, por qué no he puesto el petrolatum. Por que en mi piel con tendencia a grasa/acneica no me gusta. Me resulta muy pesado. Sin embargo, en pieles secas y atópicas, ha demostrado ser uno de los mejores ingredientes oclusivos que disminuye la perdida de agua transepidérmica.

La manteca de Karité la podemos encontrar en las fórmulas cosméticas como manteca 100% pura (shea butter o  Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) o formulado con otros ingredientes.

En uñas, manos, pies y labios va genial usar solo la manteca, mientras que en el rostro lo mejor es que forme parte de la fórmula. A mi me gustan sobre todo como tratamientos nocturnos (nutrición intensivo) o de día en épocas donde bajan las temperaturas.

Algunas de mis favoritas con manteca de Karité:

Algunas de mis favoritas con petrolatum:

Y ¿no hay más?

Sí, me he dejado las ceramidas, el ácido hialurónico, urea y algún que otro activo. Pero mejor lo dejamos para otro post. 🙂

¿Te gustaría conocer algún ingrediente en profundidad?


*Este post contiene enlaces de  afiliado de Amazon. Consulta mi política de publicidad en el Blog aquí

Referencias

Pantenol

(1) Ehrhardt Proksch, Raymond de Bony, Sonja Trapp & Stéphanie Boudon (2017) Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article, Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28:8, 766-773, DOI: 10.1080/09546634.2017.1325310

Niacinamida

(2) Lee DH, Oh IY, Koo KT, Suk JM, Jung SW, Park JO, Kim BJ, Choi YM, Reduction in facial hyperpigmentation after treatment with a combination of topical niacinamide and tranexamic acid: a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial, Skin Res Technol. 2014 May;20(2):208-12. doi: 10.1111/srt.12107.

(3) Farris P, Zeichner J, Berson D., Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol, J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Jul 1;15(7):863-8.

(4) Castanedo-Cazares JP, Lárraga-Piñones G, Ehnis-Pérez A, et al. Topical niacinamide 4% and desonide 0.05% for treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2013;6:29-36.

(5) Navarrete-Solís, Josefina et al. “A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma”Dermatology research and practice vol. 2011 (2011): 379173.

Manteca de Karité y Petrolatum

(6) Fernande G. Honfo , Noel Akissoe , Anita R. Linnemann , Mohamed Soumanou & Martinus A. J. S. Van Boekel (2014) Nutritional Composition of Shea Products and Chemical Properties of Shea Butter: A Review, Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 54:5, 673-686, DOI: 10.1080/10408398.2011.604142

(7) Tracey, W. (2011). Petroleum, oats, shea butter: are “natural” emollients best? British Journal of Nursing, 20(2), 70–70. doi:10.12968/bjon.2011.20.2.70

(8) Tzu-Kai Lin, Lily Zhong , and Juan Luis Santiago, Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils, Int.J.Mol.Sci. 2018, 19, 70; doi:10.3390/ijms1901007

(9) Lindh, J. D., & Bradley, M. (2015). Clinical Effectiveness of Moisturizers in Atopic Dermatitis and Related Disorders: A Systematic Review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 16(5), 341–359. doi:10.1007/s40257-015-0146-4

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