Carbón activo | Qué es y cómo funciona

Domingo por la tarde, lluvia, pijama y  mascarilla, creo que es el momento de relax que más me gusta de la semana. Muchas no sirven para nada, pero solo el hecho de usarlas te teletransporta a un momento de Spa en casa.

Existen mascarillas de todos los tipos, ofrecen luminosad, hidratación, limpieza, te dejan una piel que ni Cleopatra al salir de sus famosos baños de leche  (¿o era un mito?).

Aunque sin lugar a dudas, las más socorridas en los meses de verano son las que «limpian» en profundidad. El milagro anti-grasa de las mascarillas. Podemos elegir entre arcilla roja, blanca o verde, pero también las negras. Las más llamativas en cuanto a estética y con ingredientes muy interesantes: el carbón activo.

Pero ¿sabes por qué limpia?

Sin duda, si hubo una civilización que se volcó con la belleza y la cosmética fue la de los egipcios, donde maquillarse o más bien  era considerado un ritual. El negro marcaba de manera significativa la estética, teniendo significados relativos a la muerte, la vida o la fertilidad.

La manera de obtenerlo era principalmente a partir del hollín, acumulado en los recipientes de cocina que se formaba al quemar madera. Este hollín no solo se usaba como pintura decorativa, si no en tratamientos medicinales y métodos de purificación gracias a la mezcla con arcillas.  [1]

Hoy en día el carbón activo se obtiene por procesos térmicos (químicos o físicos) usando cortezas vegetales (almendra, coco, nueces), lignito o derivados del petróleo. Lo que caracteriza al carbón activo en comparación con el hollín que podemos observar en las chimeneas, es su pureza, cristalinidad, su elevada área superficial (hablamos de ella aquí) y sus poros.

SEM2
Carbón activado por microscopía electrónica (SEM)  ( vía acarbons.com)

(Off-topic: aquí aquí podeís ver algunas fotos SEM de cosas muy chulis)

En el carbón activado tienen un tamaño de entre 0.5- 50 μm y junto con su área superficial, permite su uso como filtros. Se usa para reducir las emisiones de los gases en la industria química o en automovilística, filtros para purificar el agua (jarras de agua como la Brita), eliminar olores y a nivel de laboratorio, ayuda en la purificación de compuestos.

Es bastante útil en el campo de la medicina, ya que su gran poder de adsorción permite la eliminación de metales pesados y toxinas en tratamientos por envenenamiento. [2]

¿Cómo funciona?

Básicamente como un fenómeno físico que se conoce como adsorción. Es decir, es el proceso en el que un sustancia (toxina, compuestos orgánicos en nuestro caso) se adhiere a la superficie de otra (carbón activo).

Haciendo un símil podríamos decir que el carbón activo sería algo así como una esponja cuyos agujeros (poros) adsorben el exceso de grasa o suciedad de la superficie de la piel. Aunque evidentemente, el en el caso del carbón activo el proceso físico no es tan simple.

¿Qué hace que las sustancias químicas o bacterias se unan al carbón activo? ¿Cuánto tiempo necesita?

Lo primero no es muy difícil de contestar. De manera resumida podemos tener dos tipos de interacciones: las químicas y las físicas. En el caso del carbón se trata de una interacción física, y estamos hablando de las fuerzas de dispersión de London. De manera simplificada, podríamos decir que el carbón activo atrae a las sustancias orgánicas en función de su polaridad  (toxinas, bacterias o grasa).  [3 , 4, video]

activated carbon
Se asemejaría a algo así: el carbón activo tiene una densidad de carga negativa, que atraería a las sustancias orgánicas (densidad de carga positiva).

En cuanto al tiempo, la adsorción puede ser un mecanismo terriblemente lento o rápido. En el caso de las jarras de BRITA por ejemplo, los filtros tienen varias cascadas de filtros, es decir, que lo que no se adsorbe en el primero lo hará en el tercero, permitiendo una purificación del agua bastante elevada (imagen). Si bien el agua se filtra y purifica de manera rápida al pasar por los filtros, ¿podemos extrapolarlo a las mascarillas con carbón?

Yo diría que no.

Las mascarillas de carbón no suelen ser 100% carbón activo, si no que se encuentran en emulsiones O/W y su efectividad es dependiente del tiempo de aplicación y del pH de la piel. Estudios de cómo afecta el pH y el tiempo de aplicación en este tipo de emulsiones destacan que el carbón activo es más eficiente a pH ácidos ( 3-4)  y con aplicaciones de más de 30 minutos [5, 6]

Normalmente cuando nos lavamos la cara con un jabón o un limpiador usamos fórmulas que tienen un pH un poco más básico, y debido a esto es «recomendable» o bien usar un tónico que restaure el pH de tu piel, una crema directamente formulada a 5.5 o esperar a que ella misma lo haga, hasta alcanzar el pH de 5.5 que tenemos. (Hoy en día los limpiadores ya tiene pH de 5.5 ¡no te preocupes!)

El tiempo largo de aplicación es algo más entendible, ya que muchas que useís este tipo de mascarillas habréis notado, cuanto más dejes la mascarilla más «limpia». En 5 minutos, es difícil obtener resultados visibles y muchas veces para ayudar a que este tipo de mascarillas adsorban aún más vienen acompañadas en su formulación de arcillas como el caolín o la bentonita.

Conclusión

Personalmente me gustan y soy bastante fan de las mascarillas. No solo de las de carbón activo si no de arcilla, sobre todo cuando he estado en sitios con mucha polución. Es una de etapas de la rutina facial que creo que mejor funciona a la hora de evitar granitos odiosos en lo peores momentos, e imprescindible para aquellas que les gusta llevar maquillaje prácticamente 5/7 días  a la semana.

Algunas recomendaciones sobre mascarillas con carbón activo puedes encontrarlas en el post que publiqué hace poco sobre el acné adulto (aquí), como son la Clear Improvement ™ Active de Origins o la Mudmask de Sephora .Te dejan la cara suave con sensación de limpieza.

¿Cómo usarlas?

Entre una y dos veces cada quince días, seguido de un buen tratamiento de hidratación. En cuanto a la hidratación post-mascarillas para aquellas personas con la piel grasa o mixta, son recomendables emulsiones O/W (con alto contenido en agua). Suelen ser formulaciones bastante ligeras y de fácil absorción. Una de las que más me gusta para pieles sin muchas imperfecciones y que solo buscan hidratación son el fluido Aquamatt de Lancaster o el serum Hydrance de Avène.

Para terminar, dejo una pregunta al aire. Si aplicamos el método de los filtros de agua a nuestra rutina, podríamos decir, que para tener un mejor efecto, deberíamos re-aplicar la mascarilla hasta tener el efecto deseado. Ya que con una sola capa, aunque la dejemos 3 días llegará a «saturarse» y la superficie del carbón no sera capaz de adsorber más, y conseguir unos poros limpios..

Pero, ¿es capaz de eliminar la suciedad de los famosos poros? Sin duda algo bastante cuestionable, ya que aunque existe una base científica sobre la capacidad del carbón activo como adsorbente sobre la superficie, no la hay en cuanto lo que sería su capacidad «penetrante».

¿Conocías cómo funcionaba el carbón activo, o solo la habías probado por su aspecto tan suculento? ¿Eres de las qué incorpora mascarillas a sus rutinas faciales o te parece un autentico engorro?

 

 


Bibliografía

[1] T. G. H. James, Egyptian painting and drawing, ©British Museum 1985, 1991 ©Ed. Akal, S.A. 1999.
[2]  Glenn M. Roy, Activated Carbon Applications in the Food and Pharmaceutical Industries, Technomic Publishing Company,  1995.
[3] P. W. Atkins, L. Jones, Principios de química: los caminos del descubrimiento, Ed. Medica panamericana, 2005.
[4] R. Lewis, W. Evans, Chemistry, Ed. Palgrave Macmillan, 2011.
[5] K. Okiel, M. El-Sayed, M. Y. El-Kady, Treatment of oil–water emulsions by adsorption onto activated carbon, bentonite and deposited carbon, E. J. Petroleum 2011, 2, 9-15.
[6] E. A. Emam, Modified activated carbon and bentonite used to adsorb petroleum hydrocarbons emulsified in aqueous solution, A. J. Environm. Protection 2013, 2, 161-169.

694 pensamientos en “Carbón activo | Qué es y cómo funciona

  1. Guau, me ha resultado super interesante. La verdad es que no tenía ni idea de las propiedades tan interesantes del carbón en las mascarillas. La verdad es que me voy a animar y probaré alguna de las mascarillas que mencionaste en tu post anterior. A ver si así me veo la piel más limpia!!!

    Un post genial!!!

  2. Patri!! Muchas gracias! 🙂
    El carbón es uno de los mejores materiales que hay ahora en el mercado (para todo!) y la verdad que bastante interesante en lo que concierne a las aplicaciones en cosmética!
    🙂 me encanta que te guste!!

  3. Hola! Yo me hago una una vez al mes que me va de maravilla. Combino arcilla verde, ácido salicílico y carbón activo con un poco de agua. Se hace una mascarilla muy fina que aplico durante una media hora y la verdad es que la piel queda radiante! Eso sí, cuidado con no sobrepasar la cantidad de ácido salicílico, porque puede quemar la piel.
    Enhorabuena por el blog, acabo de descubrirlo y me parece fantástico.

  4. ¡Hola Carol! Lo primero gracias por tus palabras.

    La verdad que la combinación de tu mascarilla suena genial, pero sí, el ácido salicílico es uno de esos ácido que tenemos que tener cuidado si no queremos destrozarnos la piel.

    Yo a la mascarilla de carbón también le añado arcilla verde y en ocasiones unas gotitas de aceite de Jojoba, que no engrasa y permite que tenga una textura mucho más fácil de extender.

    Me alegro que te guste el blog y esperamos volver pronto a la carga.

    ¡Un abrazo!
    Raquel

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