¿Son todos los aceites iguales? | Ácidos grasos

Cuando leemos una reseña sobre el aceite de argán, de marula, almendras o aloe vera vemos que todos tienen algo en común: están llenos de antioxidantes. Contienen vitamina C, vitamina E, son cicatrizantes, aportan luminosidad…pero ¿en qué se diferencian? ¿son todos aptos para todos los tipos de piel?

Dejando de lado los antioxidantes que lleva cada uno, hoy nos centramos en algo diferente: su composición en ácidos grasos. Ya que el 95-99% de los aceites faciales está compuesto por acilglicéridos (mono-, di-, y triglicéridos) y ácidos grasos (omega 3, 6 y 9).  Siendo estos últimos los que más nos interesan a nivel cosmético.

ÁCIDO OLEICO (omega 9)

Es un ácido graso monoinsaturado que pertenece a la familia de los omega 9 presente en el sebo humano. Al encontrase de manera natural en nuestra propia piel, es perfecto para tratar pieles secas, ya que aporta hidratación debido a su alta capacidad de penetración en el estrato córneo, además de ser anti-inflamatorio. Sin embargo, suele estar indicado para pieles secas.

Su uso de ácido oleico en pieles grasas y acnéicas es algo contradictorio. Al ser un ácido propio del sebo humano podemos pensar que es perfecto en cambio, tiene un alto grado de comedogenicidad, por lo que no es recomendable. Suele usarse como oclusivo, por lo que taponaría los poros, algo nada necesario en pieles grasas.

Aceites con alto contenido en ácido oleico: aceite de almendras, oliva, argán o marula

ÁCIDO LINOLEICO (omega 6)

Ácido graso insaturado que junto con el araquidonico pertenece a los ácidos grasos esenciales que los seres humanos no somos capaces de sintetizar  y deben introducirse en dieta. Se ha visto que pieles con tendencia acnéica tienen niveles bajos de ácido linoleico y elevadas concentraciones de ácido oleico, siendo esta una de las causas del acné. 

Formulas y aceites con alto contenido en ácido linoleico pueden ser beneficiosas en pieles grasas, además de no ser tan pesado en la piel como podría serlo un aceite con mayor porcentaje de ácido oleico. ¡Ojo! ¡aceites ricos en linoleico suelen enranciarse de manera rápida!

Aceites con alto contenido en ácido linoleico: rosa mosqueta, cártamo, sésamo o uva

ÁCIDO LAURICO

Es el componente principal junto con el ácido mirístico del aceite de coco. En cantidades adecuadas y de manera aislada, es decir, no en concentraciones tan elevadas como en el aceite de coco, se ha visto que  tiene muy buenas propiedades antibióticas, anti-inflamatorias y antimicrobiales , lo que hace que como ingrediente pueda beneficiar al tratamiento del acné para pre (fuente, fuente).

Sin embargo, en el aceite de coco el 70% de la composición es ácido laurico y mirístico, ambos, altamente comedogenicos y por tanto, nada recomendable para pieles con tendencia acnéica. Si has leído que el aceite de coco es maravilloso para desmaquillar ¡huye!

Aceites con alto contenido en ácido laurico: aceite de coco

ÁCIDOS EICOSENOICOS (omega 9)

Grupo de ácidos grasos de cadena larga entre los que se encuentra el gondoic acid (Omega 9) y erucic acid. Su presencia hace que los aceites duren más de lo esperado, ya que su oxidación es mucho más lenta. A nivel cosmético son mucho menos grasos en comparación con el oleico y es una opción muy interesante si tienes piel grasa.

Aceites con alto contenido en ácido gondoico: aceite de jojoba

acidos grasos en aceites

 


Bibliografía

[1] Characterization of Fatty Acid Profile of Argan Oil and Other Edible Vegetable Oils by Gas Chromatography and Discriminant Analysis, Ascensión Rueda, Isabel Seiquer, Manuel Olalla, Rafael Giménez, Luis Lara, and Carmen Cabrera-Vique, Journal of Chemistry

Volume 2014 (2014).

[2] Z. Charrouf and D. Guillaume, Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2008, 110, 632–636.

[3] http://essentialoils.co.za/index.htm#Essential oils

[4] The chemistry of coconut oil

[5] Molecular interactions of plant oil components with stratum corneum lipids correlate with clinical measures of skin barrier function, DOI: 10.1111/exd.12296

116 pensamientos en “¿Son todos los aceites iguales? | Ácidos grasos

  1. Este post me lo había perdido. Yo he empezado a usar el de rosa mosqueta y me está funcionando de maravilla, me veo el tono de piel más unificado, no me salen granitos y la piel con una textura más jugosa. Creo que se va a quedar una temporada en mi rutina nocturna.

  2. Buenos días,
    Tengo la piel acnéica y todas las noches después de desmaquillarme uso como hitratante (tanto de cara como de cuerpo) el aceite de coco. Hago mal?? debería de usar otra cosa??

    Muchas gracias

  3. Es que cuando encontramos el aceite ideal, es increíble la diferencia. A mi me gusta usarlos un par de veces en semana, aunque depende mucho de la temporada. ¡Un abrazo Aina!

  4. ¡Hola María!
    Perdona el retraso.
    El aceite de coco es bastante comedogénico, por eso, a mi no me parece el mejor aceite como desmaquillante ni como hidratante. Sin embargo, existen pieles que no son nada reactivas y sensibles, y no les ocasiona ningún problema. Si es tu caso, y no ves que te salga acné o tengas el poro demasiado sucio puedes seguir usándolo sin problema.

    También es cierto, que el aceite de coco que usamos en cocina no contiene los mismo conservantes y antioxidantes que podría llevar otro con un fin cosmético. Lo mismo ocurre con el de oliva.

    Además, si tienes la piel seca necesitarás ácido oleico, algo que tiene en muy baja proporción el de coco, o si es muy grasa el linoleico, que tampoco tiene.

    Al final, es cuestión de probar. Espero haberte ayudado. ¡Un abrazo!

  5. Hola Raquel, te he descubierto hace poco. Leyendo tus publicaciones, en este de los aceires, me podrias ayudar??
    Tengo una piel con rosácea, muy sensible y reactiva. Vaya lo que viene siendo el lote completo.
    Suele deshidratarse y me gusta la sensación huntuosa de los aceites, pero no he dado con el apropiado, me irritan.
    No es conveniente en mi piel. Gracias, buen día.

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