Antioxidantes, cómo funcionan

Una buena dosis de frutas y verduras de todos los colores es necesaria para el buen funcionamiento del organismo y tener las defensas a tope. Lo mismo ocurre con la piel.

Los antioxidantes son básicos, y aunque podríamos pensar que con una buena dosis en la alimentación o suplementación es suficiente, la realidad es que no llega la suficiente dosis de antioxidantes a la piel para hacer frente a los radicales libres, y evitar, entre otras, la aparición de manchas solares.

Si funcionase, todos los #realfooders tendrían un cutis estupendo.

¿Cómo funcionan?

Neutralizan los radicales libres.

De forma natural, nuestro organismo genera radicales libres que son neutralizados sin problemas por los antioxidantes. Estos pueden ser de naturaleza enzimática (es decir, a través de enzimas como la catalasa) o a través de sustancias como los antioxidantes (vitamina C o E, entre otros).

Factores externos como el estrés, tabaco, contaminación o simplemente, realizar deporte de alto impacto, hace que generemos más radicales libres de los que podemos neutralizar. Por tanto, tenemos un exceso de radicales libres. Este exceso es el que provoca el daño celular y puede terminar en enfermedades como el cáncer.

En la piel existe otra fuente externa causante de los radicales libres: la radiación solar, en concreto, los rayos UVA.

Podríamos pensar que la cantidad de antioxidantes ingeridos en la dieta debería ser suficiente para contrarrestar este exceso de radicales libres en el organismo y en la piel. La realidad es que no llega la cantidad suficiente de antioxidantes a las células epiteliales para poder neutralizar los radicales libres. De ahí que aparezcan manchas solares incluso cuando nos alimentamos de manera saludable.

Vitamina C- Ácido ascórbico

El ácido L-ascórbico (ascorbic acid) es el antioxidante más estudiado y efectivo a nivel tópico.

Es hidrosoluble, necesita de un pH bajo (~3.5) para aumentar su permeabilidad cutánea y es fotosensible a la luz solar (se transforma en ácido dehidroascórbico y más lentamente en eritrulosa).

Artículo de interés: ¿Puedo usar vitamina C en verano? ¿Mancha? | Fotoestable y fotosensibilidad

Junto con la vitamina A y sus derivados (retinoides), la vitamina C es la reina de los tratamientos preventivos.

Tiene 3 funciones clave:

  • antioxidante (neutraliza los radicales libres formados durante y tras la exposición solar)
  • despigmentante (inhibe la enzima tirosinasa, que es la encargada de producir melanina cuando nos exponemos a la radiación solar),
  • acción antiedad (fomenta la síntesis de las fibras elásticas como el colágeno).

Aunque la vitamina C es bastante efectiva, es cierto, que puede resultar irritante. Su pH es demasiado bajo y por tanto, puede producir irritación en pieles sensibles y reactivas.

En estos casos lo mejor es buscar una fórmula adaptada a tu tipo de piel, u optar por alguno de sus derivados.

Las propiedades del ácido L-ascórbico pueden ser también beneficiosas en caso de pieles acneicas, ya que reduce la inflamación y ayuda a eliminar la hiperpigmentación postinflamatoria.

Derivados de la vitamina C

El gran problema de la vitamina C pura es su estabilidad, lo que hace que sea un quebradero de cabeza para un formulador cosmético.

Los derivados de la vitamina C tienen en su estructura química la molécula de ácido ascórbico y actúan como portadores de ella. Cuando llegan a la piel son capaces de “soltar” la vitamina C e inhibir la enzima tirosinasa.

La realidad es que se necesitan concentraciones elevadas de los derivados para alcanzar concentraciones similares de vitamina C pura. Es decir, aunque usemos una crema con un 20% de ascorbyl glucoside, como máximo un 5% terminará en ácido ascórbico. El resto, “se pierde por el camino”.

La ventaja: son aptos para pieles sensibles, requieren pH mucho más neutro y son estables.

Algunos de los derivados más usados y estudiados son: sodium ascorbyl phospate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid o Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, entre otros.

Puede que no tengan una acción despigmentante tan efectiva, pero si como antioxidantes frente a la formación de los radicales libres y su posterior neutralización. Alternativas interesantes en pieles muy reactivas o que se irritan fácilmente.


Bibliografía

[1] Free radicals, natural antioxidants, and their reaction mechanisms, RSC Adv., 2015, 5, 27986.

[2] Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,2012 ,11, 310 – 317.

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